The Pragmatist Recommends: New Orleans

It’s hard to believe I got back from my sister’s bachelorette in New Orleans a week ago. (It’s been a crazy-busy summer — since touching down in NYC, I’ve been to the top of the new One World Observatory, attended a birthday party in Cape Cod, MA and booked a trip to Chicago.)

This was my fourth time to the Big Easy, and I’ve really started narrowing down my favorite places. Here are my recommendations, should you find yourself headed to Nola.

Foie Gras, Three Ways at Root
Foie Gras, Three Ways at Root

Hands down, the most creative dinner I had was at Root in the Garden District. (It is no coincidence that it was also the priciest.) I opted for the foie gras three ways (seen above), which included a frozen, pearl-like preparation that reminded me of Dippin’ Dots ice cream. Another preparation: a foie gras lollipop, complete with pop rocks. (It was a little gimmicky, but I can appreciate the creativity.)

The charcuterie platter at Root.
The charcuterie platter at Root.

The other items we tried included a charcuterie platter that looked like it was lifted from an oil still-life painting. A rustic wooden board was covered in delicacies, including meats flavored with fennel and vinegar-pickled fruits. (I went crazy for the pucker-y grapes.)

My entree was a fleet of scallops smoked inside a cigar box. The flavor is smoky and infused with tobacco — and the presentation is extremely Instagrammable.

Scallops in a cigar box at Root.
Scallops in a cigar box at Root.

When my sister chose New Orleans as her bachelorette destination, she only had one must-have: a drag show. She had plenty to pick from (we heard great things about Mag’s in Marigny), but she selected the 10 p.m. show at the Golden Lantern.

The Golden Lantern is home to an unbelievable drag show.
The Golden Lantern is home to an unbelievable drag show.

A couple of notes about Golden Lantern: The place is cash only, so plan ahead. (The ATM on-site will end up costing about $5 in fees.) And while the show starts at 10 p.m., I recommend getting there closer to 9:30, so you can snag a seat.

There are four performers who cycle through 2 or three songs apiece, so you get close to 90 minutes worth of entertainment. There’s no cover, but you’re expected to tip the performers, so bring plenty of singles. In addition, there are lots of raffles and contests. (My sister won a bottle of tequila.)

This was a true highlight.

Loved the gender-bending at Golden Lantern.
Another performance at Golden Lantern.

My last recommendations are a bit touristy — but worth the crowds of tourists. First: Dinner at Nola, an Emeril joint. (Don’t judge me, food snobs.)

Tuna Tartare at Nola.
Tuna Tartare at Nola.

I oped for the price-fixe menu, which included four courses — all were absolutely enormous, so if you’re not starving (or if you don’t have easy access to a refrigerator for leftovers), I recommend ordering more conservatively.

The standouts included a tuna tartare and a pulpo (i.e. octopus) pasta.

Octopus pasta at Nola.
Octopus pasta at Nola.

My last recommendation (and perhaps most wholehearted) is brunch at Brennan’s. This place has been around FOREVER (my dad made this initial recommendation after he went decades ago). The eatery recently underwent a facelift (new interiors and revamped menu), and the results are spectacular.

The Eggs Sardou at Brennan's in New Orleans.
The Eggs Sardou at Brennan’s in New Orleans.

I ordered the Eggs Sardou (which is basically an Eggs Benedict with artichoke bottoms instead of an English muffin) and asked for an addition of creole mustard hollandaise. Unforgettable. If you’re in the neighborhood, just go.