How to Shop Joseph Altuzarra x Target

As I mentioned Friday, Target’s design partnership with Joseph Altuzarra was a critical cog in its latest strategy: “Be cool again.” (Hey, I didn’t say it — CEO Brian Cornell did.)

Based on what I saw in-store, Target’s gamble paid off. Unlike recent candy-colored, “kooky” collaborations aimed at millennials, Altazurra’s designs were sophisticated, gimmick-free and work-appropriate. The collection proves that Target is serious about commanding fashion credibility and burnishing its once-chic patina.

Leopard Coat: Free People | Black Laser-Cut Top: Mossimo (Target) | White Jeans: AG (Lord & Taylor) | Aqua Handbag: Proenza Schouler (Consignment) | Necklace: Marni (Consignment)
Leopard Coat: Free People | Black Laser-Cut Top: Mossimo (Target) | White Jeans: AG (Lord & Taylor) | Aqua Handbag: Proenza Schouler (Consignment) | Necklace: Marni (Consignment)

But with hype comes the headache — namely, getting your hands on the clothes without succumbing to hysteria or paying triple on eBay. (There’s a reason I skipped the Marni-H&M collabo in 2012 — I value my sanity.)

Here are my foolproof steps for surviving the psychosis, from procurement to re-selling. (I’ll also be enlisting the help of my friend Rachel, a Boston attorney, improv performer and battle-tested Target shopper.)

Rachel is wearing: Leather Moto Jacket: Luella Bartley x Target |Black HeatTech Leggings (Uniqlo) | Boots: Calvin Klein (RueLaLa) | Tunic: Kirna Zabete x Target (On Super-Clearance) | Sunglasses: Norma Kamali | Purse: Marc by Marc Jacobs (Nordstrom Rack)
Rachel is wearing: Leather Moto Jacket: Luella Bartley x Target |Black HeatTech Leggings (Uniqlo) | Boots: Calvin Klein (RueLaLa) | Tunic: Kirna Zabete x Target (On Super-Clearance) | Sunglasses: Norma Kamali | Purse: Marc by Marc Jacobs (Nordstrom Rack)

Don’t rely on the advertising to choose your must-haves.

Fast fashion retailers always release look-books in advance. Ignore any article that claims to identify the collection’s “must-haves.” Study the look-book in a vacuum to scout your items. I also eschew anything featured prominently in the marketing campaign. These are the first items to sell out — and your disappointment might lead you to buy extraneous items as compensation. (For this collabo, the game-hunter trophies were the black trench and a black dress embroidered with gilded cranes — many sizes were snapped up by 8:30 a.m.) Remember, your purchase should highlight your personal style — not serve as a billboard for where you bought it.

Shopping in-store vs. online.

Rachel and I differ here. I always prefer to shop in person so I can inspect the material and check the sizing. But Rachel prefers online shopping, ordering several sizes of each item and returning what doesn’t fit properly — but she’s confident she’ll soon be able to skip the second step. “The sizing for the collections is starting to become more consistent — the earlier collections were harder to assess,” she says. “For example, the 2006 Behnaz Sarafpour shirts were cut awkwardly, with high, small arm holes.”

I try on everything in person -- usually in multiple sizes to ensure proper fit.
I try everything in person — usually in multiple sizes to ensure proper fit.

Skip the city — go suburb.

If you live in a huge city, I highly recommend trekking to a suburban area for launches. The stores are less crowded, and you won’t have to wait in line. I always call a day ahead and ask which items the store has received. It’s a trade-off: Suburban Target do not have huge selections, but you’ll be out fast enough to buy what you missed online. (Which is exactly what I did when the store didn’t have these pants.)

Thing long-term.

Yes, it’s fast fashion, but there’s no excuse for buying-then-dumping in bulk. Approach collaborations like you do cosmetics: blend, blend, blend. Everything purchased should fold seamlessly into your existing wardrobe and lifestyle. I chose a snakeskin blouse, cranberry Issa-esque dress, red tuxedo pants and a color-blocked shirtdress because they interchange with several items I already own.

Think ROI: Rachel still wears a graphic Thakoon skirt she bought in 2008, thanks to its neutral palette. “But some pieces do not hold up,” Rachel says. “I bought a Paul & Joe for Target peach silk floral print shirt, and I never found an occasion to wear it. I am finally letting it go this year–I am just not the type of person who wears peach shirts!”

If something’s sold out, forget about it.

My biggest beef with collaborations is that they engender competition. If something isn’t in my size, I take it as a divine sign from the closet gods and let it go. (Rachel recommends tailoring anything that’s too big — IF you really love it.)

Whatever you do, DON’T pay a mark-up on eBay.  These clothes may be limited-edition, but they are NOT collectors’ items. They’re made from synthetics and have no intrinsic value, unlike real silk or leather. Which reminds me…

Know the state of the re-sale market.

Buying: Designer collaborations will start surfacing at consignment and thrift stores within a year and will stay in rotation regularly. I JUST saw a pair of unworn Missoni x Target flats at Beacon’s Closet in Williamsburg for less than $20. I’ve also spotted many Isabel Marant Pour H&M items at Goodwill for less than $15.

Selling: If you want to offload your collaboration purchases, some consignment stores will BUY your unwanted Target collaboration pieces outright. “I sold most of it to Buffalo Exchange, but I NEVER got a ton of money for anything,” she says. “If anything, it just mitigates the losses a bit.”

Some stores will accept your Target items AND let you choose the selling price. But don’t go crazy — I recently spotted a Proenza Schouler x Target dress selling for an unfathomable price of $144 (down from an outrageous $180). It was still unsold at my last visit — maybe because there was an authentic Proenza dress on the next rack for less than $80.

From left to right: Proenza x Target dress at Tokio 7 | The insane price for the Target dress in consignment | A non-Target Proenza dress selling for less than $80
From left to right: Proenza x Target dress spotted in consignment | The insane price for the Target dress in consignment | A non-Target Proenza dress selling for less than $80 on the next rack