Today’s outfit is all about optical illusions, or what the French call trompe-l’œil. It’s a design technique that doubles as an inside joke for the fashion crowd — which may explain why I can’t pronounce it. (Someone really oughta burn my French minor.)
A trompe-l’œil is the art of “perspectival illusionism” — i.e., making something flat appear third-dimensional. In fashion, the concept has taken on a life of its own and morphed into sartorial punnery — a trademark for many European design houses, particularly in France.
Today’s Lanvin blouse LOOKS like it is layered with a statement necklace — but it’s really just embroidery and strategic beading. (Since I’m allergic to 99% of all jewelry, it’s also the only way I can wear major bling without an emergency dermatologist visit.)
Hidden inside the trench coat is another subtle trompe-l’œil: a lining printed to resemble lace. (It’s actually polyester — behold the miracles of good design!)
Iterations of trompe-l’œil have existed in fashion for decades — e-commerce retailer ModCloth recently charted the trend’s timelines, including its ascendance in the 1930s, with reappearances in both the 1950s and 1970s.
By its nature, a trompe-l’œil is witty and sly. Designs should be as subtle as a wink, and if a designer goes too far, the punchline flops:
Of course, there are some lovely examples, too: Kate Spade released a darling clutch that resembled a rolled up newspaper. (Olympia Le-Tan’s hardcover clutches are a close second.) And Karl Lagerfeld’s revolutionized the category since the 1980s — most recently with his foray into temporary tattoos.
Here are some of my favorite versions throughout the years:
It’s a slippery slope, trying to define what separates a successful trompe-l’œil from a dreadful one. It’s as subjective as your sense of humor.
But I think I’ve found the ONE trompe-l’œil that is universally unappealing: