Fashion’s Inside Joke: Trompe-l’œil

Today’s outfit is all about optical illusions, or what the French call trompe-l’œil. It’s a design technique that doubles as an inside joke for the fashion crowd — which may explain why I can’t pronounce it. (Someone really oughta burn my French minor.)

A trompe-l’œil is the art of “perspectival illusionism” — i.e., making something flat appear third-dimensional. In fashion, the concept has taken on a life of its own and morphed into sartorial punnery — a trademark for many European design houses, particularly in France.

Trompe-l'œil Blouse: Lanvin (Consignment) | Black Trench: Behnaz Sarafpour x Target (circa 2006) | Lipstick: Givenchy (Sephora)
Trompe-l’œil Blouse: Lanvin (Consignment) | Black Trench: Behnaz Sarafpour x Target (circa 2006) | Lipstick: Givenchy (Sephora)
The lining of this Behnaz Sarafpour x Target trench was printed to resemble lace.
The lining of this Behnaz Sarafpour x Target trench was printed to resemble lace.

Today’s Lanvin blouse LOOKS like it is layered with a statement necklace — but it’s really just embroidery and strategic beading. (Since I’m allergic to 99% of all jewelry, it’s also the only way I can wear major bling without an emergency dermatologist visit.)

Hidden inside the trench coat is another subtle trompe-l’œil: a lining printed to resemble lace. (It’s actually polyester — behold the miracles of good design!)

Iterations of trompe-l’œil have existed in fashion for decades — e-commerce retailer ModCloth recently charted the trend’s timelines, including its ascendance in the 1930s, with reappearances in both the 1950s and 1970s.

By its nature, a trompe-l’œil is witty and sly. Designs should be as subtle as a wink, and if a designer goes too far, the punchline flops:

Left: A L'Agence "tuxedo" sweater only Jim Belushi could pull off. | Right: A dreadful $85 Moschino "ice pop" cellphone case
Left: A L’Agence “tuxedo” sweater only Jim Belushi could pull off. | Right: A bizarre $85 Moschino “ice pop” cellphone case.

Of course, there are some lovely examples, too: Kate Spade released a darling clutch that resembled a rolled up newspaper. (Olympia Le-Tan’s hardcover clutches are a close second.) And Karl Lagerfeld’s revolutionized the category since the 1980s — most recently with his foray into temporary tattoos.

Here are some of my favorite versions throughout the years:

Clockwise from Top Left: Comme Des Garcons "Toes Brogues" | Daryl Hannah "Comic Book" Moschino Trench Coat in Kill Bill | The First Chanel Collection by Karl Lagerfeld (1982)
Clockwise from Top Left: Comme Des Garcons “Toes Brogues” circa 2009 | Daryl Hannah “Comic Book” Moschino Trench Coat in Kill Bill circa 2003 | The First Chanel Collection by Karl Lagerfeld featured embroidered “jewelry” circa 1982

It’s a slippery slope, trying to define what separates a successful trompe-l’œil from a dreadful one. It’s as subjective as your sense of humor.

But I think I’ve found the ONE trompe-l’œil that is universally unappealing:

This is not  joke.
Yikes.