Atop the Astronomy Tower


When I visited Dehli, one of my favorite sights was Jantar Mantar, a series of sundials and astronomical instruments nestled in the middle of the bustling new section of the city.

Silk Blouse: Carine Roitfeld x UNIQLO | Scarf: Michael Stars | Pants: Uniqlo | Tote: AllSaints | Shoes: Nike
Silk Blouse: Carine Roitfeld x UNIQLO | Scarf: Michael Stars | Pants: Uniqlo | Tote: AllSaints | Shoes: Nike

The brainchild of Maharaja Jai Singh II, this assortment of staircases and towers was completed in 1724. Each structure has a distinct purpose: to tell time, to align a star’s position and to determine the shortest and longest days of the year.


It was surpassingly chilly when we visited — roughly 50-something, which is Hawaii compared to NYC’s recent gale warning — so I selected a silk blouse and wool scarf for the visit. (In India, this is practically a Canada Goose parka.)

You’ll notice how foggy it looks in the photos. It’s not fog — it’s SMOKE — and it’s all because of the pollution. I woke up on this day with the worst sore throat. (The rest of my travel party started croaking like frogs by the time we boarded the plane for Bangalore, too.)


I tried to figure out how the work them, but these were a little too stone age for me. (Also, we weren’t allowed to climb up the stairs, the sun is blocked by the tall buildings and my iPhone already knows the answers.)



Afterward, we headed to Lodi Gardens, one of the most wonderful public spaces I’ve ever seen. It’s home to multiple crumbling tombs and mosques. It felt like I was wandering around Hogwarts.



The gardens were crowded with locals doing yoga, jogging and socializing. (One thing I noticed about India is that the workout clothes are really different — for one thing, no one ever bares their shoulders.)


The gardens were also home to a fleet of geese, koi and sketchbook artists. It was easily one of the dreamiest places we visited.

Later this week, you’ll hear about a real Hindu pilgrimage, my hints for surviving the 15-hour plane ride to India — PLUS my tested tips for dealing with Dehli belly, dirty bathrooms and more.